Machu Picchu and Beyond
Remnants of an enduring, ancient empire. Desert sand dunes. The South Pacific Ocean. Sea lions and penguins. Imposing mountain peaks. Teeming with geographical, ecological and historical treasures, Peru offers unique terrains and experiences so diverse, the country can be mistaken for an entire continent.
Most travellers begin their journey to Machu Picchu in the Andean city of Cuzco, a captivating and worthy travel destination in itself. The once-divine capital of the Inca empire and now the archaeological capital of the Americas, Cuzco is where Inca ruins merge with Spanish colonial architecture in steep and narrow cobblestone streets that wind throughout the city. I lost myself in them, admiring the impressive stonework for which the Incas are famous before I hit the markets and many shops where I was thrown into a sea of colourful ceramics and alpaca-wool tapestries, sweaters, hats and gloves – all for bargain prices. I haggled my way through them, one by one. In Cuzco, historical, cultural and shopping treasures are abound.
It would be inconceivable to visit Peru without making your way to Machu Picchu, the archeological crown jewel of South America and one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. It’s one of those humbling, soul-stirring destinations that commands silence from every person lucky enough to stand before it. In the morning tranquility, I reached the sacred mountaintop realm of powerful Incas, 
massive terraces and steep stone pathways. Clouds floated above the stone ruins like a warm blanket and weaved through the surrounding mountain peaks. It was just as magnificent as I imagined it would be. Thanks to its strategic location, this self-contained “Lost City of the Incas” escaped discovery by the Spanish conquistadors and is remarkably well preserved, an architectural wonder and engineering masterpiece. While exploring the ruins by foot, I turned a corner to find a woman sitting cross-legged in one of the rooms, eyes closed and meditating. I found my own rock above the citadel, perched myself on it, and quietly marveled at the splendor before me. The site's mystique followed and haunted me for weeks after.
Not far from Cuzco is the Sacred Valley, an area prized by the Incas for its ideal climate and geography. The archaeological ruins of Ollantaytambo and Pisac are the highlights, but so too is the drive through the valley. Lush vegetation and terraces make the Sacred Valley one of the most picturesque faces of Peru. Also not to be missed is the vibrant Pisac market where women in their bowler hats sell heaps of fruit and vegetables, and vigorously wave their handicrafts to compete for tourist dollars.
But why end the journey here? In the shadow of these giants of Peruvian tourism are jaw-dropping vistas and wildlife often overlooked by Machu Picchu-obsessed travelers.
Ballestas Islands
Known as the “Poor Man’s Galapagos”, the Ballestas Islands are part of the Paracas national reserve where colonies of sea lions, penguins and pelicans thrive. I was in the midst of unspoiled nature at its best, passing by boat through the important rock formations that stud the Peruvian coastline. The sights and sounds of these wild creatures in their natural habitat drew me into another world – and I didn’t want to leave.
Huacachina
Huacachina is the Sahara Desert’s distant cousin, with giant, golden sand dunes 
and the only desert oases in South America. I clung to dear life during the exhilarating rollercoaster ride on a four-wheel-drive dune buggy, but for travellers seeking even more adventure, you can fly down the dunes on a sandboard. I passed on that. Instead, I climbed to the top of one of the dunes... and what a magical sight it was. In the warm glow of the desert sun, time stood still.
Colca Valley
To enjoy some of the most precipitous but scenic regions of Peru, one must make the journey by bus along treacherous dirt roads in the high Andes through Colca Valley, an area that became accessible to outsiders only in the 1980s. But with risk (and frigid night temperatures) comes reward. Here, the landscape of 
snow-capped summits, pre-Inca terraces and one of the deepest canyons in the world (twice as deep as the Grand Canyon) is an unintended, exquisite work of art on a colossal canvas. It’s also here where I reached an altitude of 16,000 feet (one should be gradually acclimatized to the changes in elevation). I thought I had been swept back hundreds of years when I passed through small towns and villages that, despite the forces of modernity and commercialization, have preserved their original characteristics and customs. It’s also here where I spotted more of Peru’s most recognized wildlife: the llama, alpaca, the once-endangered vicuña and highly revered Andean condor that, in flight, is simply majestic to witness.
Peru has seen much tragedy: destruction and pillaging by the Spanish, and tremors of frequent, sometimes catastrophic earthquakes. But the heart of this complex land – its people, spirit, natural beauty and historical legacy – still beats and attracts visitors throughout the year.
Another tragedy, to me, is not seeing this gem of a country.
Feature Story and Photos by Helen Suk
 Helen Suk | |
| About the author: | |
Helen Suk is a loyal resident of Toronto, where she was born and raised. She's an urbanite, culture-vulture, reader and photography enthusiast. After graduating with a BA from the University of Toronto, she spent two years in London, UK, became afflicted with the travel bug and, at this very moment, is likely scouring the internet and contemplating her next destination. Anyone who befriends Helen knows she'll find any excuse to indulge in her most cherished foods and is always on the prowl for her next favourite ethnic restaurant. | |
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